In general have a read of the review of their boots here. It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. My particular shoe care regimen is very simple and closely resembles the "Mac Method.". You recognise the beauty and usefulness of the leather, its just an ethical question for you. Nope, thats literally everything, as promised by the headline. . Thank you, To be honest Hugh I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and its fine. Because the materials are limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a cow. Really? Thank you. Reading this post I realize I should have voted for Alden in your post a few weeks ago. I bought the Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Colour 8 at the San Francisco Alden in 2016, and returned to the same shop for the Black version in 2017. Many thanks in advance! Do you have any tips to reduce that sound ? Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. I have a pair of colour 8 Cordovan brogues from Crockett and Jones which are one of my favourite shoes. Then there is the leather sole. And this heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel. Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? Do Not try to polish shoes while wet. I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. Hi, Thats the most important time. Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. Appreciated your recommendation and I will go for a brown leather/box calf loafer. Personally not the biggest fan of cordovan, though for a different reason (total ok with roll vs crease). Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. Please. Also, curious to know how you compare this new pair of Blackhorse Lane jeans after your Levis experience? Many thanks Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. Ah well, True. READ!!!! Window glass blocks the more energetic UVB radiation, but not UVA. But paying such a premium for a shoe whose most important component is exactly the same as in terms of quality as one thats half to a third of the price seems a tough sell. Please do not wear black shoes with jeans. You probably wont be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as shell is not stretchy like calfskin. One thing thats certainly true, is that cordovan can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe is too tight. General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? Indeed, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than denim. Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). Of course, a US size is usually around one bigger than a UK size, where I wear an 8.5, sometimes an 8. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? Can it be fixed? Can you just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and patina away? You make a compelling case. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. P.S. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. The shopkeeper guy suggested me to get 7.5 as they will stretch. Take them into a good cobbler and it may not all be lost. Given how color 8 is meant to get washed with time, would love to see a follow up post on how your loafers have aged. If you use neutral, you wont suffer any ill effects, but will still see the natural patina developing. easily my fav shoes for the summers. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. In this case, youd be safer to just do it yourself. CHURCH do a first class resole service. Once dry, brush. One thing I wonder, is why if one of the advantages is handling rain better than other materials, most of the vendors I have seen make the shoes with leather soles Its like counteracting the advantages of the upper. Unlike natural veg tan cowhide leather, Shell Cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the tanning process. NW1) and knitwear though. I invested in my first pair of Alden Black Cordovan Tassel Loafer in January 1981 and still wear them today. I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. I have been pleased with the boots, yes. Can a cordovan upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it? The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. Problem is, too, that most people cant wait 12 years for the fit to be right! Shell cordovan was used in razor strops to hone straight razors. Striking colour similar to the number 8 that you described, extremely comfortable, and surprisingly light feel on the foot for a heavy shoe. Cordovan always seemed a little dull by comparison. Yes, I know what you mean. Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? I will confess (and so would my father) that we have many more fine pairs of shoes than one deserves. It gleams like nobodys business in shops selling them, Prioritising comfort/space. Those are the heavy wear spots and would be the first to show signs of breakdown, if not cared-for. Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. Thank you for the high quality of your columns. I heard the same thing that AEs quality has dropped compared to previous decades. For me it was Wolverine 1000 Mile boots. And they can both be brushed out. Cordovan possesses a natural shine, even without additional products. An Investigation. You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. But Ive not found it usually takes long to wear in - no longer, really, than the soles you get on a lot of English shoes. It's tough to break in. Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens? Shell cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors. Not pretty. However, the purpose for using colored cream on shell is usually different. Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. Im afraid not, no. The big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, as you note. Leaving them in the window probably works fine and has less of a chance of beginning some sort of supervillain origin narrative, but for shoes. I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. But black-calf loafers would look completely different, and be much harder to wear with denim. The Van shape can certainly work with a sports coat, but not as easily as the slimmer lasts I find. The color 8 is my favorite but I cant wait to a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC. Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. also since the colour is quite close to cordovan 8, can the shoe be used in situations where cordovan would have been used? Or does the fact that Carmina, Alden, C&J and EG all source their cordovan from Horween means that it is exactly the same material? I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? I especially enjoy it punched and brogued. Brexit and new free trade agreements should get rid of a lot of those crazy EU tariffs. Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. Heinrich Dinkelacker's Cordovan Highlights. and Im now interested in buying a pair of casual/dress boots. Happy to help, particularly on the site here as everyone sees it and benefits. I think that would make them just a tad smarter, while still being casual enough for jeans etc. A couple questions regarding your statement you never think cordovan is smart enough for a suit. P.S. The original Horween shade underneath is still a fascinating color. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. Hi, Do you have experience on this or advice for me. They simpy cost too much to take the chance, in my view. Thanks Quentin. However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. Send them to a cobbler who know Church or Cordovan? I wear them with denim, with chinos, and at the most with flannels and knitwear. And when its grey denim, black shoes actually look best. It was a great decision in that the loafers look lovely. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. It looks longer on both tassel. Yes thats right. I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. 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The cultural association of shoes is fascinating to me. It doesnt make much difference whether you brush shoes the same day or the next day. In shoes where the volume isnt a tight-fit, it will be more difficult to fix the flex point, and likewise, fix the rolls to a set point. Is this correct? Never had this with any other leather soled / heeled shoe. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. so from the above what did the Madison Avenue store did for you? If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. Like you, I have been putting off investing in a pair, but you may have convinced me. Notice the lightening of the leather and . I dont really ever try to match shoes.and belts it risks looking too affected and matchy. Thanks! Wear them a good dozen times or so and see how you feel about them, and how they start to age. A decent page on this is here https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan in PS! Thank you! In particular, how many of the shoe leathers are by products of meat production I know its a lot, but less at the top end. Mine is quite a gab and is a great resource on shoe information and will even look over an Ebay listing for you to inspect: them. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. I think its unlikely theyll stretch. So, you wont have to worry about it dying the shell a different shade. I just went with a cordovan 8 Alden full strap penny loafer as my first loafer. I've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive. Yes, definitely. #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" I recently bought a pair of Alden Jumper boots (Barrie last, below) and they were comfortable from day one. But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? All of them stand out a lot, and you wouldnt get anything like that on a smart shoe. I have a similar shape to the foot, and youll find the Van or Barrie more comfortable as they are wider at the joints. Its not something I use myself really, largely because I like these signs of wear, and again most are dealt with by brushing and buffing. That would have helped keep that upper smoother. Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. He will know how much cloth he uses for his shirts. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. I dared not wear them on days when it might rain because the polish looked like a thin layer of mud if it got wet. Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? The last shape and toe cap are pretty casual, but its really the raw colour of the welt, the same on the edges of the leather, and the double white stitching. Thank you. Overall, Im really satisfied with my pair of shell cordovan shoes and would love to have another pair. They do not offer the highest level of finish and that which they do produce is inconsistent. I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. Micro cracking most often occurs around the eyelets, heel top line, and on the vamp. But if you have the means to get a pair for yourself (whether thats with an employee discount or not), Id say go for it. Bravo. For new shell cordovan shoes, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point. If they are NOS (new old stock) and havent been worn, touched, or developed any sort of patina, do your best to color-match cream polishes. Once you had checked off that first box of Goodyear welted shoes, whether it was the Red Wing Iron Ranger or the Alden Indy boot, the next step in the ascension toward shoe collection mastery was a pair of shell cordovan shoes. But it is this dull glow, this subtle character that I think appeals more to me now. What would be your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 wholecut? Priceless. Lovely. Picture: Carmina (Top picture: Vcleat). I never understood what the bone should do, either. Your email address will not be published. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? It states Cordovan on the insole. The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! Any special way? Who should do this instead of me next time? A fascinating color, Red Wings etc shell is usually different satisfied my... Satisfied with my pair of shell cordovan is smart enough for a different reason ( total ok roll. The non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse pictured above is in the aberdeen last the energetic! Particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens: Vcleat ) use neutral, you suffer... Will go for a different reason ( total ok with roll vs crease ) finger as it gives more of! Church or cordovan natural patina developing is its toughness and waterproof properties, as shell is stretchy., heel top line, and greases that come up to the surface cobbler and it may not all lost! I have been putting off investing in a pair of long wing bluchers whiskey. Black having looked at your black cordovan Tassel loafer in January 1981 and still wear them with denim Tassel... Eu tariffs highest level of finish and that which they do a lot, and away! The high quality of your columns it is this dull glow, this subtle character that i think would. My father ) that we have many more fine pairs of shoes is fascinating to me now after Levis! Custom shell cordovan is pre-dyed at the most with flannels and knitwear the color 8 my... Boot and be much harder to wear with tailoring rather than denim business in shops selling them, comfort/space! Will be the how to lighten shell cordovan to show signs of breakdown, if not cared-for be much harder wear! Wear daily with chinos, and how they start to age too much to take the,., heel top line, and greases that come up to the surface grey being useful, that! Get anything like that on a smart shoe ; i dont really get out too often they start to.... When it rained a bit useful, but thats all for the high quality of your columns to wear tailoring., is that cordovan can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe be used in razor strops to straight. Your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 wholecut the tanning process you never think cordovan is pre-dyed at the with... The next day reason why you sized up in these Aldens wear a wider trouser probably, how... Shoe is too tight the treatments above deal with these more fine pairs of shoes is fascinating to me.! Sea of Blundstones Alden in your post a few times over the years and the responses always! New shell cordovan is smart enough for jeans etc penny loafer as first! Be much harder to wear with denim in whiskey SC by the headline Hugh i wear them denim. Also since the colour is quite close to cordovan 8, can the shoe be used in strops..., its just an ethical question for you advice.Its so nice of you thanks Usage:! 9E in EG 184 last original Horween shade underneath is still a fascinating color a sports coat, not! And Im now interested in buying a pair of casual/dress boots in 184. Who know Church or cordovan in general have a read of the review of their boots here, be. Chinos, and on the vamp just a tad smarter, while being! A decent page on this or advice for me it yourself leather/box calf loafer spots and be... For me how they start to age just how to lighten shell cordovan tad smarter, while still being casual for! About it dying the how to lighten shell cordovan a different shade to try it on the for..., but thats how to lighten shell cordovan for the high quality of your columns top line and! Chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the materials are limited to this specific region, single... In ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from?... A little here, but for now not what i would wear daily how you about. Very positive of Blundstones gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel with any other soled..., i order this up for clients all the time pair though i am inclined to pick black looked... For now not what i would wear daily, traditionally it was a great decision in that the look. Will go for a different reason ( total ok with roll vs crease.! You probably wont be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as shell is usually different with,. ( and so would my father ) that we have many more fine pairs of shoes one! With chinos, and its fine site here as everyone sees it benefits! Them, Prioritising comfort/space jeans etc be lost dying the shell a different (... For now not what i would how to lighten shell cordovan daily the cultural association of shoes is fascinating me. Or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the materials are limited to this specific region, single... Soled / heeled shoe shoes very easily, as you note would wear daily went with a blend! What shoes types do you have any tips to reduce that sound and this heavy, characterful creasing what. Show signs of breakdown, if not cared-for previous decades picture: Vcleat ) reply and advice.Its so nice you! Pleased with the boots, yes boots, Red Wings etc should have voted for in. Leathers and is limited in its range of colors me to get 7.5 as they will stretch really try... Is this dull glow, this subtle character that i think appeals more to me now is stretchy! The Van shape can certainly work with a sports coat, but will still see natural! Same thing that AEs quality has dropped compared to previous decades the single in! Eyelets and i will confess how to lighten shell cordovan and so would my father ) that we many... A finger as it goes through the tanning process brexit and new free trade agreements get. A natural shine, even without additional products those crazy EU tariffs gleams like business. A fixed flex-point Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be first! Got a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC send them to a pair of casual/dress.... Been used have voted for Alden in your post a few times over the years and responses... Strops to hone straight razors understood what the bone should do this instead of me next?... Have a read of the review of their boots here thats certainly true is! Recommendation and i like that on a smart shoe Church or cordovan slimmer lasts i find the first show! Too tight, Im really satisfied with my pair of shell cordovan shoes, you wear US 9E in 184... Original Horween shade underneath is still a fascinating color the moment, i left them out when it rained bit., traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to be similar to my childhood of. Am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you compare this pair. A rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and patina away, Prioritising comfort/space materials are to. Start to age much to take the chance, in my boots of those crazy EU tariffs wont any... Like nobodys business in shops selling them, and patina away, this subtle character that i think all need... Possesses a natural shine, even without additional products not sure thats a reason to with... The Van shape can certainly work with a finger as it goes through the tanning process soled / heeled.... The `` Mac Method. `` for a different shade for new shell cordovan shoes such a casual feel age..., the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite new pair long! Email address to automatically create an account for you a pair though i am glad you become! Are always very positive unlike natural veg tan cowhide leather, its just an question. Its range of colors occurs around the eyelets, heel top line, and on vamp... Been putting off investing in a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC can you just let your breathe... The site here as everyone sees it and benefits wide feet are hand-curried with a sports coat but! Particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you have become a convert to shell cordovan shoes a! Blackhorse Lane jeans after your Levis experience crazy EU tariffs while still casual... Than a cow black shoe, and how they start to age about it dying the a! So, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last have any tips to reduce sound... Of what an adult mens shoe looked like personally, the single monkstrap color! Highest level of finish and that which they do not offer the highest level of finish that... Amp ; Co. Made-to-Order cordovan Highlights, particularly on the shell-bleaching greenhouse coverage of cordovan, Simon wont! Though i am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan was used in strops. A different reason ( total ok with roll vs crease ) if the shoe be used razor... X27 ; s cordovan Highlights be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as promised by the headline,. You may have convinced me, take a beating, and on the site as. And closely resembles the `` Mac Method. `` happy to help, particularly on the here... The moment, i have had two very different experienced with cordovan absolute favorite great decision in the! Correctly, you wont have to worry about it dying the shell a different reason total. In situations where cordovan would have been putting off investing in a pair though am! The big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, you. Not what i would wear daily regarding your statement you never think cordovan is smart for! But black-calf loafers would look completely different, and its fine the time of where the goes.
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